Jili Allen - Designer & Creative Consultant

Have you ever wanted to know how shoes are made, how to make your own dream pair of shoes for yourself or some other gorgeous creature?  Shoes that fit your feet like a glove, tailored to you, and with the great satisfaction of having been made by you…? Even trying to find a book that can teach you the basics is almost impossible…

Look no further than the gorgeous Paul Thomas and his fantastic evening classes and intensive courses in the heart of London!  A true cordwainer, Paul took some time out from making shoes to answer a few questions - lovely man that he is!

1. Where did your love of footwear come from?

       As a child I always had a fascination with shoes and would spend hours in the shoe cupboard trying on all my family’s footwear.  When I reached my teens and discovered fashion I was very disillusioned with what was available to men in particular, shops only seemed to stock classic styles in a choice of black and brown; style and image was important to me so I regularly travelled from West Wales to London in search of the perfect pair!

2. Have you always had a passion for hand-making?

      Yes most definitely, I love the exclusivity of a hand crafted product, mass produced perfection has never really excited me, my mum taught me to knit when I was nine years old, and I supposed that’s were the love began. I was the only boy at school wearing my own creations; I kept this a secret from the other kids from fear of being singled out, although I did draw a certain amount of attention!

3. So, Paul, I see that you not only run your own classes, but also work with the London College of Fashion; what do you enjoy about teaching, and what inspired you to start?

      I fell into teaching really; I love the art of sharing skills and have often collaborated with other crafts people in my designs. Cordwainers College were I studied in the late eighties early nineties, asked me to come back and teach in the technical departments 18 months after graduating. I was in the process of setting up my own business and saw this as a regular income to support me while establishing myself as a designer maker. It was then that I discovered a love for enabling people; watching students grow and develop in a mutual love of shoes.  I began running my own courses in 2000, I realized that a gap had appeared in the market of schooling, I felt that too may restraints were being placed on students to be more commercial and the style of teaching had become very generic, everyone developing their skills through making the same shoe.  I thought more would be learned through variety of styles and designs happening in one room, then everyone could share in their experiences.   There was also no were for graduating students to go to continue their study in more advanced skills or make their products, also part time evening classes ran on making classic styles, and this did not allow for any individual design input; due to the fact that different disciplines of the manufacture where held in different rooms, so would have been impossible to deliver teaching without running from room to room.  My studio was up and running and all contained in one room, so this is were I began, first with a group of four which has now grown to six, a size that is manageable without compromising the learning experience, allowing plenty of one to one tuition.

4. What would you say is your teaching style?

      A difficult question to answer, I would say relaxed, informal, fun, accommodating and informative. These are the main key points any teaching environment should have, with a let’s give it a go attitude. Shoemaking when I was studying was very old school, if it wasn’t leather it wasn’t possible.  I think it’s very important to try new things, so I would always encourage students to experiment with materials that were new to shoemaking.  Not all were successful but some interesting things began to happen.

5. Bespoke shoes are also in your repertoire; what is the most amusing or different pair of shoes you have been requested to make?

      I would have to say there have been quite a few, ranging from a pair of size 12 stiletto boots for a gentleman with a rugby players physique, to a pair of flesh coloured cloven hooves to name a few.

6. Have you ever refused a client’s design?

      Yes, sometimes what the client thinks they want is not what they want at all. Their visualization in 3d can be non-existent, I consider it my job to enhance their aesthetics.

7. What makes a fabulous shoe designer in your opinion?

      A child’s eye, to be able to look at something with complete naivety as to its purpose, I think this is important to any designer wishing to develop.

8. Describe your favourite pair of shoes.

      I have many it’s impossible to choose one pair, but if pushed it would have to be my fish skin trainers I recently finished, my favourites are always the new designs I am working on.

9. If you could work with anyone in the world, who would it be?

 It would have to be Salvatore Ferragamo if he were still alive, he really inspired me I loved his ethos.

10. Name something that you find iconic.

        The invisible sandal made by Ferragamo in 1947, it still looks modern today.

For more information on Paul’s classes and for contact details please go to www.paulthomasshoes.com